Black Raspberries & Meringue

I love (and frequent) the Union Square farmers market all year round, but few things excite me more than the arrival of the first summer berries. Strawberries, blueberries, blackberries–they are all far superior to their supermarket counterparts, but it’s the black raspberries that bring me the most joy.

I can only guess that black raspberries are too often confused with the blackberries they resemble (black raspberries are “hollow” just like raspberries, but usually smaller than blackberries) since they seem to still be at the market stands after the strawberries have sold out. They have a distinctive flavor–a cross between a raspberry, blueberry and a blackberry perhaps, but one that is truly its own. In a weird way that is both warmly nostalgic and vaguely disturbing, the flavor of fresh black raspberries is reminiscent of the artificially flavored and colored (were sky blue) black raspberry slushies that I got on the Jersey shore boardwalk when I was a kid.

Black raspberries showed up a few weeks ago and will only be around for 2 or 3 more and are well worth their price of $5/pint (one farmer promises they are chock full of antioxidants). They are delicious plain, on cereal or simply sprinkled with sugar and fresh cream. Or, if you want a little more out of your dessert, you can try my recipe that follows for toasted meringue (also known as a pavlova), an easy, delicious and light accompaniment for any fruit.

Toasted Meringue (Pavolova)

makes approx. 16 merinues

1/2 cup egg whites (about 4), room temperature

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 Tbsp confectioners sugar, sifted

1. In the bowl of an electric mixer, whip egg whites on medium speed until very soft peaks form.
2. While the mixer is still running, slowly add 1/4 cup of the granulated sugar. Turn mixer to high and let mix for 2 minutes.
3. Again, with mixer running, slowly add 2 more tablespoons of granulated sugar, and mix for 2 minutes. Repeat previous step until all the granulated sugar is incorporated into the meringue. Note: all the grains of sugar should be dissolved before the addition of more sugar. If you are unsure, simply rub a bit of the meringue between your fingers or on your tongue. If you feel grains, keep mixing.
4. When all the granulated sugar is incorporated into the whites, the meringue will be stiff and shiny. Remove from the mixer and fold in the confectioners sugar.
5. Using a large star tip, pipe the meringue onto a parchment-lined sheet pan into circles. Or, using a spoons, drop mounds of meringue onto lined sheet pan and make a “well” in the center of each mound.
6. Place in an oven set at 200 degrees F. for 2-2 1/2 hours, until the meringue gives only slightly when pressed gently with a finger. Once cool, the meringue should be crisp all the way through. If not (or, if after a few humid hours or days in storage, they go soft and sticky again) simply return to the oven for additional time. Store in an airtight container.

Place one meringue in a shallow bowl. Pile berries on top. Pour fresh cream into the bottom of the bowl so that toasted meringue is sitting in a pool of cream. Top with fresh whipped cream.